Wall sconces are the ideal accent lights for illuminating a dim hallway, or stairwell, ideal to install in an area of the room that isn’t well-lit.
When placed in pairs on either side of the mirror in restrooms, they serve as task lighting.
Wall sconces add the finishing touch by fusing aesthetic and functionality, even if your home has ample general lighting.
If you place wall sconce lights between two studs and above an outlet, they aren’t too difficult to install and hardwired into your home’s electrical system.
You can add elegant lighting to your home that will last for years with just a few hours of work.
Follow these simple directions for installing wall sconces.
Steps To Install Wall Sconces:
Switch the power off:
By turning off circuits at the electric service panel, turn off electricity to the work area.
Cut off the circuit’s power.
Use a voltage tester to confirm that the power has been switched off.
Mark the location where the wall sconce will go.
Make a pattern with a utility knife, then use a drywall saw to cut the hole for the light switch and sconce boxes in the wall.
Connect the power source to the switch with a cable.
Identify the wall studs:
Using the stud finder, locate the two vertical wall studs behind the drywall that the sconce will be positioned between.
Marking is done with painter’s tape.
Normally, studs are separated on either side by 14-1/2 inches (or 16 inches on-centre).
Locate and mark the light and switch:
Mark the placement of the wall switch and sconce lamp with tape.
They should be positioned between the two studs.
Although the height of light switches is not specified in the electrical code, they are typically 48 inches high.
Make and cut the Light Box Hole:
The drywall-cutting templates with round electrical boxes are frequently made of paper.
If yes, use scissors to cut this out before drawing a circle where the sconce light will be.
A 4-inch hole is necessary for a 4-inch box.
Using a hole saw or drywall jab saw, manually cut the hole.
Removal of the drywall cut-out is necessary.
Make a mark and cut a hole for the light switch box:
Mark a hole in the wall using the light switch paper template, if one is available.
If not, flip the box around and make a template out of its edges.
Cut the cut-out out, then remove it.
Examine the Type of Outlet Box:
The outlet’s faceplate needs to be removed before you can start drawing power.
Utilize the non-contact voltage tester to confirm there is no power connected to the outlet.
Leave the outlet linked to its wires while you unscrew it and pull it out of the box.
Ascertain whether the outlet box is a nail-in (or screw-in) box or an old-work box:
- Old-Work Box:
The box will look similar to the one you purchased to install the wall sconces light switch.
The two screws that are fastened to the box allow it to be removed.
- Nail-in or Screw-in:
Unlike the old-work box, modern boxes will not have two screws.
These boxes can be taken out by removing drywall.
Remove the Out-of-Service Outlet Box:
The old-work outlet box’s two screws can be removed using a manual screwdriver.
As soon as the box becomes loose, turn the screws anticlockwise.
Then, while still leaving the box’s wires attached, drag it into the room while holding one of the box’s edges.
Install Wiring to the Switch Box from the Light Box:
By physically fishing 14/2 wire from the light box hole, you may get to the switch box hole.
Cut the wire so that it extends 8 to 10 inches from each hole.
Mount the Light Box to the Wall:
One of the holes on the 4-inch round box should receive the upper end of the 14/2 wire.
Put the box through the opening.
To fasten the box to the wall, turn the screws in a clockwise direction.
Fix the mounting hardware.
Use the cable ripper to take the outer casing off the 14/2 wire, cut it off, and discard it.
Wire ends should be stripped.
A metal ring or strip that you screw onto the electrical box should be included with the sconce light kit.
Make sure the three wires are inserted into the mounting hardware.
Connect the Sconce to the Box and Wire:
Black and white, bare copper and bare copper, green and yellow-green wire, and green and yellow-green wire should all be connected.
Connect black to black, white to white, bare copper to bare copper, or green/yellow-green wire to green/yellow-green wire.
The sconce should be screwed into the mounting hardware using the provided fasteners.
Using the provided fasteners, screw the sconce onto the mounting hardware.
Wire the outlet starting at the switch box:
The switch box hole should be connected to the outlet with a 14/2 wire length.
Drop the wire from the switch box hole to the opening outlet hole for old-work boxes.
Use the fish tape to thread the wire upward through the back of the outlet box up to the switch box hole if the package is to be screwed or nailed in.
Leave 8 to 10 inches of wire dangling from each hole in either style of box.
Wall-mount the switch box after installation.
The switch box’s back is where the two 14/2 wires should be inserted.
Place the parcel inside the doorway.
Using the manual screwdriver, turn the screws anticlockwise until the box is firmly secured to the drywall.
Connect the Light Switch to the Wires:
Connect the load black wire (install the side that faces the wall sconces light) to one end of the light switch and the line (or powered) black wire to the other.
Connect one white wire to another, excluding the light switch.
Bare (Copper) Ground:
Connect the two bare copper wires plus a third, 5- to 6-inch-long copper wire.
The three wires should be twisted together and finished with a wire nut.
The third copper wire should be connected to the light switch’s green screw.
Screw firmly into position.
Onto the box, screw the light switch. Include the face plate.
Connect the Wire to the Power Outlet:
The wiring is completed by attaching the cable from the light switch to the outlet.
Cut the paper and the cable sheathing from the 14/2 wire.
Wire ends should be stripped.
Depending on whether the outlet is one of two groups of outlets or the end of a series of other outlets, the wiring is different.
Connect the white wire to a silver terminal on the spare (unused) side of the outlet and the black wire to a gold terminal.
Remove the outlet’s current bare copper wire.
The current bare copper wire, the bare copper wire entering with the 14/2 cable, and a third bare copper wire should all be attached as ground wires.
The third bare copper wire should be connected to the outlet once the three wires have been twisted and finished off with wire nuts.
Another technique involves twisting the bare grounds together, leaving one about 6 inches longer than the others, then covering the twisted section of the wire with a brass crimp.
Shut off the outlet:
Place the wires inside the box once again.
To the box, attach the outlet. Include the faceplate.
Turn on the Sconce Light:
Reconnect the circuit at the service panel.
It is possible to check the sconce light by turning the light switch on and off.
How to Install a Wall Sconces Light from Scratch?
The majority of instructions for installing sconce lamps assume that an electrical box is already there and that power is routed directly to the installation area.
Your house won’t have this unless you’re replacing an existing sconce light.
Additionally, there may be a wire behind the wall in the proposed 48 to 72-inch sconce height range, but you can’t rely on it.
On the other side, dependable extra power can be found in electrical outlets.
The walls are lined with an electric cable, and outlets are spaced no more than 12 feet apart.
Every outlet offers a handy place to start a wire that will go up to a sconce light.
It is a straight, unobstructed vertical wiring run as long as the sconce and outlet are located horizontally within a few inches of one another.
Drilling through studs or making pointless holes in the drywall are not necessary.
Fire-blocking is present in the walls of both older and contemporary residences with ceilings greater than 9 feet tall.
These 2×4 planks cross the wall cavity and are typically 48 inches off the ground.
They can stop simple wall fishing.
Recommended Wall Sconce Heights:
The wall sconces install height is determined by its placement and intended use.
For instance, a reading lamp placed near the front door will be higher than one placed next to the bed.
Consider the type, height, and upward- or downward-pointing orientation of the wall sconce.
Always shut off electricity from the electric service panel to the operating area.
Before cutting through the drywall if you think there may be water pipes running through the walls, turn off the water at the main water shut-off.
Sconce Light Installation Tips and Fittings:
- If the switch is inverted, you can retain the cords in place and turn it upside-down (flipped up turns the light off, and flipped down turns it on).
- Make sure the circuit is switched off before attempting.
- Installation is significantly simpler if you get a switched sconce light.
- There is no need to install an additional wall light switch because the switch is included within the sconce housing itself.
- However, some customers favour the ease of a wall switch.
- You can turn on the sconce light more safely by using an illuminated wall switch rather than wandering around to find a non-lighted switch.
- Use a manual Phillips screwdriver rather than a drill to insert old-work boxes into drywall.
- The strain from a drill might cause the plastic swing clamps to shatter easily.
FAQ- How to Install Wall Sconces:
Q1. Is hiring an electrician required to install a sconce?
Hard-wired sconce installation is not a DIY project.
A pair of sconces and a wall switch will cost you $300 to $400 to hard-wire into your home’s electrical circuits.
For drywall repairs and painting, add $250 to $500 if the installation necessitates cutting open the drywall.
Q2. Is it simple to install a sconce?
If you can place wall sconce lights between two studs and above an outlet, they aren’t too difficult to install and hardwired into your home’s electrical system.
Q3. How are wall lights and sconces different from one another?
It is common to use the terms “wall light” and “wall sconces” interchangeably to refer to lamps that are installed on walls.
If we had to get into the technicalities, a wall lamp varies from a sconce that is normally made of glass, which covers the light source.
Lights are install on the wall sconces to maximize a compact or limited area.
These modern fixtures offer indirect lighting for small spaces including stairwells, bathrooms, and corridors.
Similar to installing a ceiling light, installing a wall-mounted light requires the usage of a ceiling box and cable.