In some homes, when you remove the remove non-load-bearing wall creates more space, increases flexibility, and often unfastens home improvements made by previous owners.
The load-bearing wall and the non-load-bearing wall are the two types of walls that make up a home.
Load-bearing walls carry the weight of the aforementioned components such as the roof, attic, second floor, and joists.
As compared to all outside walls, only some interior walls are load-bearing.
On the other hand, a non-load-bearing wall only supports itself.
Even though the ceiling can be physically attached, the ceiling is not supported by it.
Non-load-bearing walls are used only to divide rooms.
The non-load-bearing wall can be remove quite easily on your own once you’ve established that it won’t support loads.
Basics of Deconstructing a Non-Load-Bearing Wall:
Older homes were divided into a large number of little rooms to regulate warmth or because milled wood was unable to span large distances.
The low-cost laminated veneer lumber (LVL) was not available.
The open floor layout with beams that could cover considerable distances started to be used in newer, post-World War II homes.
Typically, these homes contain one sizable common area including a kitchen, dining room, living room, and two or three bedrooms.
Purpose of Non-Load-Bearing Walls:
The wall may be for several reasons such as soundproofing, energy segmentation, or privacy concerns, even if its primary function is not to support loads.
These kinds of non-load-bearing walls are frequent:
- Closet walls.
- Walls between bedrooms.
- Interior basement walls.
- Walls that create a home theatre or entertainment area.
- Any type of wall configuration with angles, such as those in a kitchen pantry or a guest bathroom.
Steps To Remove A Non-Load-Bearing Wall:
Identify the wall’s non-load-bearing capacity:
Rooms are always defined by walls, yet they rarely support the weight from above.
When they do support weight, they are crucial to the overall house’s structural stability.
You can tell whether a wall is load-bearing by looking for these signs:
The weight can be supported by any exterior wall.
There are no exceptions to this rule.
If the wall is parallel to the joists above, it most likely cannot hold loads.
In contrast, a wall that is supporting loads will be constructed perpendicular to the joists above it.
Some perpendicularly constructed walls could however not support any weight.
An excellent illustration of a non-load-bearing wall that frequently forms a 90-degree angle with the joists is a closet.
Cut off the water and the electricity:
Switch off the electricity coming through the wall at the circuit breaker.
Turn off the water at the main shut-off valve in the house or intermediate water shut-off valves.
Both load-bearing and non-load-bearing wall can often be remove in almost all places.
Your city or county permit office will need to certify that the wall removal won’t have an impact on the home’s structural integrity, even though you may have already made this determination.
Two weeks before you intend to tear down the wall, submit your application for the permit.
Take Out Surface Obstacles:
Even objects that you want to throw away like light switches and faceplates should be removed one at a time.
They can make taking down the drywall more challenging.
Remove the drywall:
Cut into the drywall with the hammer’s claw end.
Fold back the pieces, then throw them away.
Peel drywall that is hanging off with your hands.
Unscrew the drywall screw as soon as you find it.
It is straightforward for you to remove the drywall if you can remove any drywall screws.
Clear Wires and Tubes from the Walls:
Interior walls are used to run the service and utility lines such as communication cables, sewer waste pipes, plumbing supply pipes, and more.
If there are any utilities in your interior non-load-bearing wall, you might want to hire a plumber or electrician to come in and remove them or stub them out.
You will be left with a junction box for electrical work that has a blank faceplate that can typically be painted over.
Cut out studs and take them out:
The studs can be taken out by pounding the top or bottom of the studs parallel to the plate with a sledgehammer and then twisting them to release the last few nails.
Then, studs might be utilized again in another place.
The purpose of the reciprocating saw is to cut the studs through the middle if you don’t have another use for them.
Pull the cut studs back manually.
Cut off Significant Nails:
Both the floor and the ceiling will show nail protrusions.
Use the reciprocating saw’s metal-cutting blade to remove the nails.
Make an Expert Call:
Whether or whether an inside wall is supporting loads might be challenging to determine.
You can consult a structural engineer or contractor who will examine the wall for a set rate or on an hourly basis.
FAQ- How to Remove a Non-Load-Bearing Wall:
Q1. How challenging is it to shift a non-load-bearing wall?
Even though it is labour-intensive and filthy, removing a non-load-bearing wall is not particularly difficult for experienced do-it-yourselves.
You’ll also need to manage or rewire the service lines that pass through the wall including the plumbing, electrical, and other lines.
Q2. How to remove a non-load-bearing wall?
A wall removal will typically cost between $300 and $1,000 for non-load-bearing walls and between $1,200 and $10,000 for load-bearing walls.
Your home’s design will also affect this expense because multi-story homes typically cost more, especially if you’re taking down a wall from the lower level.
Q3. Is a load-bearing wall removal subject to planning approval?
Internal wall removal generally does not require planning approval.
But if you’re remodelling a listed building, you need authorization for both the interior and outside work.
We advise consulting a structural engineer if you intend to remove a non-load-bearing wall.
A structural engineer will inspect the house, determine the size of the beam and posts you’ll need, and decide whether additional support is required under the posts.